Sea Breeze
by Karen Kolkman
Gene Marshall is modeling a Kolkman Kreations gown on the red carpet this evening....
The Designers Notes
by Karen Kolkman
Gene Marshall is modeling a Kolkman Kreations gown on the red carpet this evening....
The Designers Notes
Concept:
I was really excited to find out that a
gala event gown was our first challenge as I love looking at the
designer gowns in women's fashion magazines - especially at Oscar time.
I have never sewn for 16" dolls and I only have one Gene doll which I recently received from a doll club friend; she has some pretty coarse looking hair and a broken arm which keeps falling out at the elbow.
I knew I wanted a low cut gown with an asymmetrical design from the bodice to the floor. I planned for a slit somewhere in the front and the length in the front to reveal shoes yet the back must trail the floor. A low cut back was also part of the plan, to reveal Gene's lovely back.
I had lots of ideas of what I'd like to see in my design and started pulling out some fabric from my sewing room. For me the colours must look good on the doll so part of my personal challenge is that the fabric go with something in the dolls hair & makeup. My Gene's coloring is not something that appeals to me yet I have found a fabric that brings out her eyeshadow and eyes.
Decision:
My fabric choice from my sewing room needed some lining and a sheer accent fabric to drape the floor. A trip to the fabric store was a must. I brought my fabric piece and the doll with me. As it turns out I couldn't find anything suitable. Instead I spent a very pleasurable hour walking around checking out colors that appealed to me, feeling fabrics for a nice drape. My Gene doll has the most breathtaking eye color in pale blue with lavender eye shadow so I thought I'd look for something to match. I wanted a plain fabric for the basic part of the gown and something very sheer and elegant for the accent. I first checked out the satins looking for one that would press easily and came across a reversible shantung in 100% polyester in pale pastel blue. I found a sheer rainbow colored fabric in a multi lurex 99% polyester with 1% lurex. The pastels in blue, green and lavender with delicate silver threading was just right for the semi-sheer fabric. I found the silver embroidery trim which might be the accent or shoulder strap needed, not even sure if I had a plan for it. I already had the faux fur at home. I did not purchase any lining don't know why...
I draped and pinned the fabric on the doll moving it around and thinking how I might make the gown; this is how I usually create outfits. I normally use regular white paper to make a pattern or I just start cutting the fabric, but this doll is a new size for me so I thought plain beige cotton fabric would work better since I really don't know her body well. I drew my design on the cotton with a pencil and started cutting and fitting each piece to the doll.
When I was sure enough I cut the shantung pieces and sewed them together. I kept draping the lurex in between and on top to decide how to use it. I quickly saw that I needed more panels for the gown for a better fit. I had decided to use the lurex as the lining so I had cut out pieces for that too. Each adjustment I required fixing the lining. I did not make a pattern for any of the lurex inserts or back pieces, I just started cutting, pinning and sewing.
I don't have any schooling in design or pattern making so some of this is really hard for me. The first day I kept at it for 7 hours.
The most challenging part was trying to figure out a professional looking closure at the back of the dress and the fact that my parents were coming for a two week visit and arriving the next day and I should have completed the design (ha!). What a great distraction! I was stuck so I took the dog for a walk, mowed the lawn, - trimmed the edges and gardened till sundown. I did not actually go back to my design until Monday after lunch.
I spent another few hours trying to get the front gathering right around the slit. I must have turned it inside out and hand picked out the seams half a dozen times. After dinner I worked on it for another 6 hours during this time I figured out the closure and designed a wrap. The bodice was supposed to be a sexy low cut but instead it was falling off her breasts. I hand sewed the gathered upper bodice piece to fit closer to her body and added the silver embroidery trim to the gown with the single shoulder strap, finally bringing the bodice together.
The train has a hidden hook and can be held up for strolling, or apres'-party activities.
The wrap started out as a piece of quickly cut faux fur. I draped it over the shoulders to see how the color and fabric looked, then I cut, gathered and pinned some of the lurex at the ends, cut some shantung as the lining and added a pinned collar piece. I did not want to use any clasps as the look was to just hang around the shoulders but found that the one piece wrap didn't stay in place. I had to start over and design the top like a cape with a bit of shoulder shape to it. The lurex ends then looked better attached to the bottom of the cape like top . I found I really loved the faux fur color against Gene's face. To complete the wrap I added the silver embroidery trim to the outside of the colour, this carried the colors and fabrics from the gown to the wrap.
I added a wrap mainly because I love them, but there is also nothing
worse than trying to find a coat to go with your floor sweeping
gown. It sticks out under a coat and looks quite
silly. A wrap is elegant and takes the chill off a cool
evening.
I did not make jewelry although I can make some simple items. I think earrings are a necessity for this outfit something similar to my pictures. A necklace is not required because of the silver embroidery trim, although I had one on before I added the silver. I don't make shoes, I would like to see open strapped heels in silver, possibly matching the silver embroidery trim I used on the gown for the toe strap.
Viewpoint:
I am quite pleased with the end result of my design. It turned out as I imagined it. I see my model walking up to the red carpet with the wrap on, pausing and turning so the train does a little twist on the floor then dropping the stole to reveal the dress for the photo op of the year.
I think that the gown and wrap are unique enough to stand out and people might say - Who designed that gown? I gotta have it�. I know the colors are very vibrant yet they make a bold statement, like me or hate me, the colors distinguish my design and the bodice sets it apart.
The most enjoyable part of this design for me was choosing the colors and taking the pictures of the completed outfit. I take my time selecting the background or diorama pieces and positioning the doll.
If I could change one thing about my gown I would make the skirt from the waist down a bit thinner, I think it looks a bit too round or loose and it should have hugged her hips more.
I completed my outfit at 2pm on Tuesday Judgment Day� and made it to the post office before it closed.
Karen Kolkman
Kolkman Kreations
I have never sewn for 16" dolls and I only have one Gene doll which I recently received from a doll club friend; she has some pretty coarse looking hair and a broken arm which keeps falling out at the elbow.
I knew I wanted a low cut gown with an asymmetrical design from the bodice to the floor. I planned for a slit somewhere in the front and the length in the front to reveal shoes yet the back must trail the floor. A low cut back was also part of the plan, to reveal Gene's lovely back.
I had lots of ideas of what I'd like to see in my design and started pulling out some fabric from my sewing room. For me the colours must look good on the doll so part of my personal challenge is that the fabric go with something in the dolls hair & makeup. My Gene's coloring is not something that appeals to me yet I have found a fabric that brings out her eyeshadow and eyes.
Decision:
My fabric choice from my sewing room needed some lining and a sheer accent fabric to drape the floor. A trip to the fabric store was a must. I brought my fabric piece and the doll with me. As it turns out I couldn't find anything suitable. Instead I spent a very pleasurable hour walking around checking out colors that appealed to me, feeling fabrics for a nice drape. My Gene doll has the most breathtaking eye color in pale blue with lavender eye shadow so I thought I'd look for something to match. I wanted a plain fabric for the basic part of the gown and something very sheer and elegant for the accent. I first checked out the satins looking for one that would press easily and came across a reversible shantung in 100% polyester in pale pastel blue. I found a sheer rainbow colored fabric in a multi lurex 99% polyester with 1% lurex. The pastels in blue, green and lavender with delicate silver threading was just right for the semi-sheer fabric. I found the silver embroidery trim which might be the accent or shoulder strap needed, not even sure if I had a plan for it. I already had the faux fur at home. I did not purchase any lining don't know why...
I draped and pinned the fabric on the doll moving it around and thinking how I might make the gown; this is how I usually create outfits. I normally use regular white paper to make a pattern or I just start cutting the fabric, but this doll is a new size for me so I thought plain beige cotton fabric would work better since I really don't know her body well. I drew my design on the cotton with a pencil and started cutting and fitting each piece to the doll.
When I was sure enough I cut the shantung pieces and sewed them together. I kept draping the lurex in between and on top to decide how to use it. I quickly saw that I needed more panels for the gown for a better fit. I had decided to use the lurex as the lining so I had cut out pieces for that too. Each adjustment I required fixing the lining. I did not make a pattern for any of the lurex inserts or back pieces, I just started cutting, pinning and sewing.
I don't have any schooling in design or pattern making so some of this is really hard for me. The first day I kept at it for 7 hours.
The most challenging part was trying to figure out a professional looking closure at the back of the dress and the fact that my parents were coming for a two week visit and arriving the next day and I should have completed the design (ha!). What a great distraction! I was stuck so I took the dog for a walk, mowed the lawn, - trimmed the edges and gardened till sundown. I did not actually go back to my design until Monday after lunch.
I spent another few hours trying to get the front gathering right around the slit. I must have turned it inside out and hand picked out the seams half a dozen times. After dinner I worked on it for another 6 hours during this time I figured out the closure and designed a wrap. The bodice was supposed to be a sexy low cut but instead it was falling off her breasts. I hand sewed the gathered upper bodice piece to fit closer to her body and added the silver embroidery trim to the gown with the single shoulder strap, finally bringing the bodice together.
The train has a hidden hook and can be held up for strolling, or apres'-party activities.
The wrap started out as a piece of quickly cut faux fur. I draped it over the shoulders to see how the color and fabric looked, then I cut, gathered and pinned some of the lurex at the ends, cut some shantung as the lining and added a pinned collar piece. I did not want to use any clasps as the look was to just hang around the shoulders but found that the one piece wrap didn't stay in place. I had to start over and design the top like a cape with a bit of shoulder shape to it. The lurex ends then looked better attached to the bottom of the cape like top . I found I really loved the faux fur color against Gene's face. To complete the wrap I added the silver embroidery trim to the outside of the colour, this carried the colors and fabrics from the gown to the wrap.
I did not make jewelry although I can make some simple items. I think earrings are a necessity for this outfit something similar to my pictures. A necklace is not required because of the silver embroidery trim, although I had one on before I added the silver. I don't make shoes, I would like to see open strapped heels in silver, possibly matching the silver embroidery trim I used on the gown for the toe strap.
Viewpoint:
I am quite pleased with the end result of my design. It turned out as I imagined it. I see my model walking up to the red carpet with the wrap on, pausing and turning so the train does a little twist on the floor then dropping the stole to reveal the dress for the photo op of the year.
I think that the gown and wrap are unique enough to stand out and people might say - Who designed that gown? I gotta have it�. I know the colors are very vibrant yet they make a bold statement, like me or hate me, the colors distinguish my design and the bodice sets it apart.
The most enjoyable part of this design for me was choosing the colors and taking the pictures of the completed outfit. I take my time selecting the background or diorama pieces and positioning the doll.
If I could change one thing about my gown I would make the skirt from the waist down a bit thinner, I think it looks a bit too round or loose and it should have hugged her hips more.
I completed my outfit at 2pm on Tuesday Judgment Day� and made it to the post office before it closed.
Karen Kolkman
Kolkman Kreations
